A report by Danny Howell. First published in Warminster And District Archive magazine, number four, May 1990:
An Evening Stroll About The Stourhead Estate
About 30 members of the Warminster History Society took an evening stroll about the Stourhead Estate on Wednesday 7th June 1989. History Society member Chris Bubb, who is a gardener on the Estate, acted as guide and escorted the party on a four mile walk to parts that the general public do not usually see. On route he explained many of the architectural and landscape features which make Stourhead the unique gem that it is in the English countryside. It is probably the only 18th century garden created by an amateur that remains as it was originally conceived.
Leaving the car park the walkers passed under the Archway which was built in the castellated Gothic style in 1799. The adjacent Lodge was built in 1830. Nearby is a group of Spanish chestnut trees, believed to be 350 years old, and these pre-date the famous Hoare family. Mr Bubb suggested that the site of the old manor house of the Stourtons was probably close to the present Lodge.
The wonderful view from Stourhead House looks east towards Whitesheet Hill and Salisbury Plain. The house is 620 feet above sea level and its position makes it a cold place in winter. The main part was built between 1721 and 1724 (20 years before the construction of the Pleasure Grounds) for the Hoare family, who were bankers. The architect was Colen Campbell. Two wings were added in 1795, providing a library and a picture gallery for Sir Richard Colt Hoare, the famous Wiltshire archaeologist. The main body of the house was damaged by a fire in April 1902, but Sir Henry Hoare had the Palladian mansion restored. Sir Henry and Lady Hoare bequeathed Stourhead House and its contents, the gardens and over 2,000 acres of land to the National Trust in 1946.
After seeing the exterior of the house, the walkers continued, ignoring a shower of rain, along a track before crossing a field to see the Obelisk. It was originally erected in 1740 but was rebuilt in 1839. It commemorates Henry Hoare who laid out the Pleasure Grounds. It was struck by lightning in 1853.
Members were next shown the Fir Walk, which was made in the 1720s as an outer boundary of the old house grounds. Its perfectly straight alignment went out of fashion 20 years later when the informal style of landscaping came in. The Fir Walk was restored to its original glory about 10 years ago.
Members continued along a path overlooking some small lakes which pre-date the gardens. These lakes were probably mediaeval fish ponds.
The path led into Six Wells Bottom, a long valley flanked by the appropriately named Shady Hanging and Sunny Hanging. Noisy ewes and lambs “serenaded” the party as it made its way to St. Peter’s Pump. The latter is built over the spring head of the River Stour which makes a 68 mile journey before joining the sea at Christchurch in Dorset.
The pump takes the form of a cross on top of a grotto. The cross was originally built in 1474 and was situated near to St. Peter’s Church in Bristol. It was removed by Act of Parliament in 1766 and re-erected in 1768 (hence the date upon it) in its current position. Sadly, there was no water visible in the well; the headwaters of the Stour now rise a little further down Six Wells Bottom. The carved figures around the cross are badly weathered but Mr Bubb explained that they are due for restoration next year.
The party then headed out of Six Wells Bottom into woodland, climbing up a path to a spot about 700 feet above sea level. From here glorious views of the Dorset Downs were afforded, and among the visible landmarks were the spire of Zeals Parish Church, Duncliffe Wood (now owned by the Woodland Trust) near Shaftesbury, Shillingstone Chalk Pits, and 900 feet high Bulbarrow Hill (the second highest point in Dorset).
The woods at Stourhead hide a little-known Iron Age hill fort, sometimes referred to as Stourton Castle. A break in the walk was taken to admire the single rampart and ditch which encloses four to five acres.
From here the top of Alfred’s Tower with its recently restored spirelet could be seen. The tower has just been re-opened to the public (Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons) and the top is 1,000 feet above sea level. Those who take the trouble to climb the steps can, according to weather conditions, see Minehead, the Welsh mountains and the Purbeck Hills.
Descending a precarious path out of the woods, the walkers emerged near the recently renovated Beech Cottage. To the south is an area of pasture featuring a group of magnificent oak trees. An almost deserted area today, this was once the village of Luckington. Following the unsurfaced road back to the Pleasure Grounds, with the scent of wild flowers high on the air, was a pleasant experience.
Before rejoining the main road members inspected an old water wheel. Cast in 1921, it was one of the last products made by Hindley & Maggs at the Bourton Ironworks which closed in 1930. The wheel carried water from the lake to farms and cottages on the estate but was disconnected in 1971 in favour of the mains supply. Opposite the water wheel is an ornamental drinking trough with fittings supplied by the Warminster ironfounders and waterworks engineers John Wallis Titt & Co.
Turning left, the party passed under the strange looking Rock Arch, an 18th century structure which carries a footpath across to the Temple of Apollo. On the return to the starting point, nearly everyone took the opportunity to have a pint and a natter in the Spreadeagle Inn.